Three key aspects of cucumber
First, soil preparation for fertilization should be based on composted straw, cow and horse manure, chicken manure, pig manure, and other organic materials. Before laying the plastic film, it's important to apply diluted manure. When applying ring fertilizer and liquid manure, it's beneficial to mix in fresh chopped straw, fully cooked wheat bran, rice husks, and used edible mushroom substrate. A typical application includes 3000 to 5000 kg of farmyard compost, 100 kg of superphosphate, or 30 to 50 kg of DAP, or 40 to 50 kg of biological fertilizer, or 200 kg of cake fertilizer. After spreading the materials on the ground, perform two deep plows. Then, dig trenches according to the row spacing, place the remaining fertilizer into the trench, mix it thoroughly with the soil, and water the trench to form a solid base. For overwintering and cucumber cultivation, large and small ridges are commonly used, with small rows spaced at 80 cm and large rows at 100 cm, resulting in approximately 3300 to 3500 plants per acre.
Second, planting. 1. Seedling selection: Choose healthy seedlings on sunny days. Grade them into large, medium, and small sizes, then transport them to the sides of the planting ridges. From an overall greenhouse perspective, larger seedlings should be placed on the east and west sides, as well as the front part of the greenhouse. Medium-sized seedlings should be placed in the center. Within each row, place larger seedlings in the front, smaller ones in the back, and average-sized ones in the middle. This arrangement promotes even growth and uniform appearance. 2. Film covering: After planting, plan carefully to encourage deep root development. Cover the beds with plastic film about 15 days after planting to protect the young plants and maintain soil temperature.
Third, when cucumbers grow to 40 to 50 nodes, their growth is limited by the greenhouse height, so it's time to start hanging the fruits. To make this easier, use nylon strings, preferably hung separately. It's best to set the nylon lines higher up to allow for easy replacement as the plants grow. Regularly remove yellow or diseased leaves, side shoots, tendrils, male flowers, deformed fruits, and any infected fruits. Avoid removing more than three leaves at once, and keep around 20 functional leaves per plant to ensure optimal photosynthesis and fruit development.
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