Apple Tree Summer Trimming and Attention Problems
One, Summer Pruning Techniques
Summer pruning of apple trees plays a crucial role in ensuring high yield and fruit quality. It includes methods such as opening branch angles, thinning branches, twisting shoot tips, softening branches, ring barking, and girdling. When applied correctly, these techniques can significantly enhance tree productivity. However, improper application may negatively affect tree growth and fruiting.
1. Opening Branch Angles: For main and lateral branches with narrow angles, use support, tension, or pressure to open them to 70-80 degrees. For auxiliary branches and fruit-bearing branches, adjust their angles between 70-120 degrees based on the needs of the fruiting area. This ensures even distribution of fruiting parts along the main branches, both vertically and horizontally, preventing overcrowding and improving light exposure.
2. Thinning Branches: From June to September, remove crowded, legged, or overly dense branches, especially those around the crown or growing too tightly. Cutting from the base helps reduce nutrient consumption, improve air circulation, and enhance light penetration. Removing strong branches also weakens their growth, allowing better space distribution for other branches and promoting better flower bud development.
3. Twisting Shoot Tips: Starting in early May, when new shoots reach about 20 cm in length, twist the tip at its base (about 5 cm from the tip) that is partially lignified. Hold the base with one hand and gently twist the tender top 90-180 degrees downward, then fix it in place. This technique is commonly used on supplementary branches to slow down nutrient flow, reduce tree vigor, and encourage flower bud formation. A typical tree should have no more than 20-25 twisted shoots.
4. Softening Branches: For upright or perennial upright branches, bend them gradually during the summer when they are still flexible. Use one hand to hold the base and the other to slowly push the branch downward, moving it from inside to outside. For large, angled branches, use both hands carefully to avoid breaking them. This method helps reduce branching potential, increase nutrient accumulation, and promote better shoot growth and flowering in the following season.
5. Ring Barking: This involves making a circular cut, 5-6 cm from the base of a branch, cutting through the bark to the xylem. If the tree is vigorous but not fruiting, this can be done 2-3 times. The cut must be straight and even, avoiding slanted cuts that could cause excessive damage and prevent healing. Ring barking performed in May-June has proven effective in promoting flower bud formation and early fruiting in young trees.
6. Girdling: This is a more intensive pruning technique typically used on young trees, vigorous trees, or long-term non-fruiting trees. It involves cutting the bark 5-10 cm from the base of a branch, making 1-2 circular cuts to the xylem. The spacing between cuts should be about 1/10 of the branch diameter, usually between 0.3-1 cm wide. After girdling, the wound should be wrapped immediately and monitored for healing. Avoid applying any chemicals. Girdling effectively redirects nutrients toward fruit production and encourages flower bud formation.
Second, Key Considerations
1. Focus on the Right Trees: Summer pruning mainly targets young trees, vigorous trees, and strong branches to stimulate flowering and fruiting.
2. Timing Matters: The best time for summer pruning is between May and August. Pruning too early may hinder growth, while doing it too late may interfere with flower bud development.
3. Control the Amount: Since apple trees are in a period of active growth, there's a balance between vegetative and reproductive growth. Excessive pruning can weaken the tree or create unnecessary stress, so it's important to keep the amount moderate for optimal results.
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